Thursday 31 August At Sea Somewhere in the Pacific

 Spoke with the Melbourne Chilean consulate last night and I will be one of five at that time they will be emailing visas to Princess Cruises. There has been similar problems with the Sydney embassy.  All cleared up now.

It is 19 degrees with 40 kmph winds, the swell has dropped a bit to only 2.5 metres, but there is still quite a bit of movement.  It is cloudy and the pools have been closed as well. We expect more of the same conditions tomorrow.  There was a wine festival this morning and we were able to get a reisling and a Tempranillo for under $30 a bottle each. We are now stocked up with sufficient wine, beer and gin to see us through to Sydney. The normal on board prices for wine are outrageous. 

Can’t believe it is just under three weeks until we arrive back.

Bull seal

Is that a shark?

Fishing fleet at Paracas

Coming into the pier

Port area in Paracas

 

Wednesday 30 August At Sea

 We were late leaving port again last night. Waiting on a delivery of milk and eggs! Prior to leaving the Captain advised that we will be heading into 40 kmph winds and up to a 4 metre swell. We are now facing four days at sea in the South Pacific Ocean before we reach Easter Island.

Last night we had dinner, courtesy of Kirk our travel agent, in the Bayou Cafe and Steakhouse. A cover charge of $53 pp is applied because it is a speciality restaurant. I had Australian King Prawn and Papaya Salpicon
mustard seed aioli for a starter, while Ann had Mediterranean-Style Blue Swimmer Crab Cake, Tarragon Foam
cured olives, grilled asparagus for mains we both had filet Mignon 200 gems and for dessert we had Salted Caramel Crème Brulee Cheesecake vanilla cream, honeycomb and enjoyed a bottle of De Borteli Chardonnay.  Not to mention a lovely cheese bread and bread roll to start.

It was a rough night with the ship moving around quite a bit. Ann slept through it. This morning it is 17 degrees still windy, overcast and 4 metre swells. You are struggling to walk uphill and then trying not to run downhill. Ann has taken a Dramamine and is feeling fine. I spoke with guest services about the visa and I have to come back at 6 pm which will be 9 am Melbourne time and ring the embassy. I am not the only one who has been affected.

Peruvian Boobies

Heading into rough weather

Lots of pelicans

Tuesday 29 August San Martin Peru

 We were late leaving Callao last night as the refuelling barge was late to arrive. We were scheduled for a 6 pm departure but did not leave until 10.30. The captain told us that though it was a relatively short leg, just some 170 nautical miles, he could still make port by 7 am if he upped the speed to 19 knots. There was smooth seas expected overnight so he was confident we would be on time. In the end when we woke up around 6.30 we were already docked!

Once again it is a cloudy sky and only 17 degrees and no wind. There is nothing at San Martin, it is a container port in what appears to be desert. The ships used to dock at Pisco, but that port is closed following an 8.0 earthquake in 2007 which destroyed 85% of Pisco’s  buildings and killed over 400 people. A resultant 5 metre tsunami did not help either. So San Martin is the port and it is located in the Bay of Paracas, which is a large bay. A shuttle bus is provided to get to Paracas the nearest town, which is about a 30 minute drive. Paracas is a tourist destination for the NASCA lines and the Paracas National Reserve and tours to Ballestas islands.

We researched it a couple of days ago and were keen to take a speedboat tour to the Ballestas Islands to see penguins, seals and birds. Princess cruises had a tour for $169 pp. On line we found Viator for 40 Australian each but that was from Pisco. In the end we decided to chance it and see if we could pick up a tour locally. We thought it best to head off early and we were on the 8 am bus. 

The drive went through some spectacular scenery of rocky sand and sand hills, nothing but desert! This area of Peru receives an average of 1.8 mil. of rain per year.  As we got to the town it was like an oasis in the middle of nowhere. As we got off the bus tour guides/operators were everywhere, all with official tourism logos, so we felt pretty comfortable in picking one out. It cost $25US each. We asked how long we would have to wait and were told it was straight away. We were led to the pier where there were plenty of speedboats each accommodating around 44 people. We were first in line. After about 20 minutes when we had a queue of 30 people we were taken to board the boat. As we were in front we had to sit up the front next to the captain. We were well protected from the wind and any spray and could stand and watch whenever we wanted.

Our first stop was the candelabra, a series of lines etched into the side of a hill, we then travelled to the Ballestas and saw Humboldt penguins, seals and various birds as well as spectacular scenery around the rocky islands. The tour took almost 2 hours and was well worth it. We then walked along the shore front and stopped at one of the kiosks and had a Pisco sour. A great way to finish and say goodbye to South America.  When we leave tonight around 5 pm we will really feel we are heading home. It is nearly time (4pm) to head for our coffee, we are up on deck 14 overlooking the indoor pool, the sun is out at last and it is 23 degrees.

Drive into Paracas

Type of speed boat for our tour

Face profile

Resting seal

Vulture

Pisco Sour

Candelabra 

Pelican

U

Monday 28 August Callao Peru

 Had a rough night last night. I woke around 1 am and had trouble getting back to sleep. We are in a container port that operates 24 hours a day and I kept hearing the reversing beepers of the trucks and fork lifts. Eventually got back to sleep but woke up just after 6 am. 

Once again cloudy to foggy skies and 21 degrees. We head off the ship just after 10.15 and take the shuttle to Miraflores. We have a 15 minute wait and then we are away. Crossing the first intersection out of the port we pass between 100s of trucks waiting to pick up containers. As we were taking our walk in the gym, a large container vessel came into berth just behind us at right angles. It is going to be a busy day in the port.

It takes just on 40 minutes to get to Miraflores and we are dropped off at the Lacroma shopping mall. The mall is built into the sides of the cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. There are high class shops and there are great views over the ocean. After visiting the shops we head off on a walk along the cliff top. The sun is trying to break through the cloud. After 90 minutes we decide to head back and manage to get a shuttle back to the ship straight away. We check out what’s on offer at the horizon court and decide to get a toasted roll at the International cafe and take it back to our cabin. The sun is making an appearance and there are a couple of cold beers waiting. It is lovely on the balcony and we have another beer as we bask in the sun and watch the container ships get unloaded. It is 23 degrees.

I have had another problem with my Chile visa. We both received emails back on 1 July, Ann receiving two, which were all in Spanish. Ann’s second email had a photo of her visa attached. The other emails just had QR codes which I assumed were the visas. Princess issued a request for the visas to be printed out and handed to them by 30 August. We went to guest services about a week ago and Ann is fine, but all I have is a confirmation that I have paid for the visa, which is free anyway. I was asked to follow it up.

I replied to the email but it came back undelivered. I then found the embassy email for the Melbourne consulate and sent everything off to them. This was on Wednesday our time. So far no response. I will not advise Princess until 30 August as we are in Pismo tomorrow and they could put me off if I do not have a visa, so I will wait until we are at sea on the Wednesday. I may send a follow up email tonight.

Paddington Bear

Sunday 27 August Callao Peru

 This morning we are docked in Callao Peru. It is 20 degrees with cloudy/foggy skies. Callao and Lima  are frequently foggy as the Humboldt current meets the cold air coming down from the Andes and results in foggy conditions. It also affects the rainfall with Lima getting just 11 inches per year. All their water comes from the rivers flowing down from the Andes. The houses have no guttering or down pipes. Any greenery is from irrigation. Palm trees seem to be the go to tree.

We meet up for easy bus tour of Lima at 9 am. Lima is 14kms from  the port. The port is another very large container port. Our guide is very informative as we travel through the districts towards Lima. There is very little open spaces, just industrial buildings, houses, business, shacks and some high rise apartments.  

Our first stop is the Plaza Mayor. A large square surrounded by beautiful old buildings including the government palace and the cathedral of Lima. It is the historic centre of Lima and is a world heritage site. Other buildings include the Archbishop palace and the Municipal palace. As we were waiting there a band started up  and there was a dedication ceremony to the firefighters who we are told are all volunteers. Further on into the square we come across a group of people dressing up in colourful costumes with dog faces! Apparently when villagers come down from the Andes to live in the city they form clubs so they can group together with people from their own village. They then perform once a month on a Sunday which could be dressing up, traditional costumes, singing and dancing. At times it may also be a celebration of a particular saint, of which there are many in South America.

We then drive through some of the more wealthier residential area and pass an archaeological area where there is a flat top pyramid built with rounded mud bricks. It is then on to Miraflores but on the way we pass another pyramid that has been built with man bricks in the shape of books and stacked like a book library it is Huacs Pucllana. Miraflores is a lovely place, very modern with great views out over t Pacific Ocean. There are parks, one called Parque Del Amor, the park of love and it has a large sculpture of two people embraced in a kiss. Apparently it is a very popular park on 14 February and they have a longest kiss competition. 

There are lovely walks along the coast and a lot of surfers out on longboards. It looks like a beach break and not very powerful, a bit like cat bay. It is then a 45 minute drive back to the port along the coast, arriving back at the ship around 2 pm. The tour was very enjoyable and informative, but not a lot of walking so we will have a gym session after lunch to keep up the steps!n

Shanty town on the side of the Andes

Rounded mud brick pyramid

Library pyramid 

Kissing statue

Dog faces?

Saturday 26 August At Sea

 Another day at sea, cloudy skies, passing showers, 2 metre swell and 21 degrees. At breakfast Ann sees a large pod of dolphins  on our starboard side. Our  dinner steward Bryan is leaving us tomorrow after being with us since Sydney. It will be sad to see him go. Angie from our table has purchased a World Cruise T-shirt and we will all sign it and put comments on it and present it to him as a thank you gift. 

We continue down the east coast of Peru towards Callao, the port for Lima, which is some 14 kilometres from the coast. We have booked a bus tour of the city sights for tomorrow through Princess as there does not seem to be much around the port area and there are warnings that outside of the port area is not a safe place. We are overnight in Callao, so the first day with the tour we will be able to get a better handle on what is available. Pre dinner drink tonight is a very nice bottle of Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Friday 25 August At Sea

 We continue to sail south along the South American coast, this morning we are off Peru. It is sunny, 22 degrees and windy with 2 metre seas.

This afternoon the temperature has dropped to 20 degrees as we continue south. We have another day at sea tomorrow.

Life guard tower on the beach at Manta

More creative towel art.

Thursday 24 August Manta Ecuador

 We sleep in to 7.30 this morning! We are already docked and it is sunny and 26 degrees. Manta is the tuna capital of the world and you can see why when we look out the window. There plenty of tuna boats at anchor and many of the larger  boats have landing pads on them with a small helicopter. They use the helicopter to locate the schools of tuna and then surround them with their nets. One of the boats docks on the other side of the pier from us and we can watch them unload the tuna. They are not large tuna probably 4 to 5 feet. We are told that the ships usually stay at sea for up to two months and can offload 1000 tonnes of tuna. With the number of boats and how they fish I am surprised they have not fished out the area by now. 

We have our gym session, breakfast and trivia and then head off the ship. There is a shuttle from the ship to the end of the docks area as it is a working port. The city is quite large with high rise buildings and a lovely beach to the right. The beach is quite long with waves rolling in, giving left and right breaks on a sandy bottom. The waves are only 2 to 3 feet but rideable. There is no one riding, but further off on the horizon I can make out what appears to be a rocky point with what appears to be much larger waves breaking. I suspect this is where you would go to surf.

We walk around for 90 minutes, stock up with wine and chuppa chups, have a walk along the beach, see a flight of pelicans fly over us and then head back to the ship. Manta is also the home of the Panama hat and there are street vendors everywhere selling the Panama hat. It is getting very warm and as we head back and an ice cold beer is calling us. Later on we go to the wheelhouse bar where Ann gets a Shiraz gin and I have a beer. Ann gets a shock when the amount comes up in her account - $25! Her first and last Shiraz gin on this cruise.

About 2.45 we hear there are some whales off the starboard, so I race and get my camera and was able to get a couple of shots, though they were a long way off. There was a group of at least four humpbacks and they were quite active with breaching and fin slapping. Then we sail out at 6 pm and the captain says we might see the whales again on our port side. About 30 minutes after leaving we see them again but they are still a long way off. There were a lot of splashes and when I check the photos I can see the body of a whale as it comes out of the water.

Tuna boat with helicopter 

Part of the Tuna fleet

Find the Whale

Find the Whale 2

Watching the sunset while looking for whales

Wednesday 23 August At Sea

 During the night the ship was moving around quite a bit but by morning everything had calmed down again. At 7 am it was 27 degrees and smooth sailing. While at the gym there were a number of rain squalls passing but by 11 am it was clear skies with the occasional clouds. We are heading south along the Colombian coast towards Manta Ecuador. The captain is really pushing it and we are steaming along at 21 knots! At noon the temperature has dropped slightly to 28 degrees and around 3 am tomorrow we are expected to cross the equator.

Tight Fit

Looking down a mule and the ship in the lock

Jungle vegetation in the canal

Welcoming crowd

Panama City sky line in the rain

Stacked container ship in Lake Gatun

Tuesday 22 August Panama Canal

 Wake up early as we enter the canal precinct at 6.30. No walking today too much to see. The Canal technically begins when we pass through a breakwater into Limon Bay. We are due to enter the first set of locks at 8 am, so we have an early breakfast and try to find a spot on the top deck. No luck all the good spots taken. Ann suggests we head back to our deck 10 and see what it is like at the front of our deck. There is a viewing space similar to the one we have aft. 

There is a crowd there but I can get some good shots over the heads of people. Ann spots one of our dinner companions who is right at the front and there is room for Ann and beside her there is a shortish lady that I can easily shoot over. We are in the middle and have a great view of both sets of locks. It was also announced that because of the drought, the ships passing through today have been limited to 25, 18 going south and 9 coming north, normally there are 42 ships but this was reduced to 32 and today only 25.

The process is very similar to the river locks but on a much bigger scale. There is one ship in front of us and three in the locks on our starboard side. Coming into the locks you would swear there is no way we could fit, but we do and it is a tight squeeze. While the ship moves forward using its engines, on both sides are mules keeping the ship in the centre of the lock. They have lines attached to them from the ship and they accompany the ship into the locks. The mules are worth 1.5 million each and are made by Mitsubishi. No they do not have four legs, they are powerful tugs that run on rails 

The first set of locks are named the Gatun locks and there are three stages to take us up to the level of the Gatun lake, 85 feet above sea level, the largest man made lake in the world. It takes us 2 hours and 20 minutes to get through the locks. We then sail through the lake in very picturesque scenery towards the next set of locks where we are due to enter at 2.30pm. When we started this morning it was 26 degrees and overcast, at noon the temperature has dropped to 25 and it is now raining. At least we got good weather for the first locks. 

It has not stopped raining. As we left the Gatun lake we continue through the Culebra cut which was the lowest point of the Continental divide. They blasted there way through the Continental divide with dynamite. Just before the Centennial bridge we sail through the continental divide. We then enter the second lock system, the Pedro Miguel locks. By the time we get to this lock I am soaked despite wearing a rain jacket! Ann has been hiding under her umbrella. This lock has only one chamber and takes us down 29 feet. We then enter Lake Miraflores and 30 minutes later we are approaching the last set of locks the Miraflores locks. These locks have two chambers and will lower us another 54 feet to sea level. It is too wet on the balcony or up on deck so we are limited to watching it on the bridge camera from our cabin TV.

While it would have been great to watch the transition through all the locks, they are the same method and procedure as the ones we started with. As we leave the last lock, on the port side there is a viewing area which is packed with people to view our transition. With all the rain we’ve had this afternoon, Ann said it reminded her of Romancing the Stone!

As we pass the viewing area there is public announcements in Spanish leading to a loud cheer. The captain wants us to reply so he leads an Aussie Aussie chant. I end up letting out a cooeee, and this is followed by a number of other cooees! It is now 4 pm and we have entered the last chamber before continuing along the Panama Canal before entering the Pacific Ocean at Panama City and it is still raining! There are quite a lot of ships in the gulf of Panama waiting to enter the canal.

Approaching the Gatun Locks

Control room with a mule in front

Passing through the Continental divide